Growing up in Vancouver, I was surrounded by an eclectic and extensive array of ethnic restaurants. You name the ethnic food, Vancouver had a restaurant to curb the cravings. That is, unless you yearned for good, authentic Mexican food. Then you were out of luck. There were a couple of quasi-Mexican restaurants that served such specialties as nachos and from-the-bucket slushy margaritas. Moles? Isn't that a kind of backyard rodent? We were a deprived and undereducated bunch when it came to the cuisine of our neighbor far to the south. In fact, the closest I came to authentic Mexican food was a wild taxi ride through the streets of Tijuana on a day trip from San Diego.
When I married my husband, lover of all food Mexican, I realized it was time to venture beyond jalapeno peppers and refried beans. The best thing he did to help me along this culinary road, though perhaps a little self-serving (I'm not complaining in the least), was to buy me a copy of Rick Bayless' Mexican Kitchen. My first foray into the world of ancho chiles and moles was when I made Rick Bayless' Smoky Peanut Mole Recipe with Pork Tenderloin for my husband's fortieth birthday. It was nothing short of spectacular. This tomatillo sauce, which I altered slightly, has become another one of our favorites. Paired with spicy grilled shrimp and a sweet-tart slaw, and wrapped in a warm corn tortilla, it makes a colorful and flavorful meal.
The recipe:
The tomatillo sauce:
Preheat the broiler.
Husk and wash 8 to 9 medium tomatillos.
Line a large baking sheet with foil and place the tomatillos on it, along with 1 stemmed jalapeno pepper and 3 cloves unpeeled garlic.
Place the baking sheet under the broiler and cook until the tomatillos begin to blacken and start releasing some of their juices. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let cool until the tomatillos are cool enough to handle.
Place the tomatillos into the bowl of a food processor or blender. Squeeze the roasted garlic into the processor.
Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add ½ white onion, diced into ¼-inch pieces. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is browned, about 10 minutes. Add to the tomatillo mixture.
Pulse a couple of times to combine. Cut the jalapeno pepper into pieces and add a little bit at a time, pulsing and tasting after each addition, until the heat is at the desired level. Remember that the heat will begin to intensify when the mixture is simmered. The sauce should be a puree, but with some chunks of tomatillos.
Wipe out the skillet, turn the heat to medium-high, and add 2 teaspoons olive oil. Drip a small amount of the tomatillo mixture into the pan. If it sizzles loudly, the pan is ready. Add the rest of the mixture and, stirring constantly, cook until the mixture thicken and darkens.
Stir in 1 ½ cups chicken broth, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and let the mixture simmer vigorously until it coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes.
The slaw:
Thinly slice red cabbage until it totals 2 cups. Place in a medium bowl and add ¼ cup chopped cilantro. In a small bowl, whisk together 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice, 2 teaspoons honey, and a pinch of salt. Toss the cabbage mixture withe the dressing.
The tortillas:
Wrap 8 corn tortillas in a heavy kitchen towel and place in a steamer set over boiling water.
Cover with a lid and let boil for 1 minute. Remove the pot from the heat and, leaving the lid on, let the tortillas rest for 15 minutes.
The shrimp:
Peel and devein 24 large shrimp.
In a medium bowl, combine ¼ cup canola oil, ¾ teaspoon ground coriander, 1 teaspoon chili powder, ¾ teaspoon ground cumin, and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Toss the shrimp in the marinade.
Heat a large grill pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Do not overcook or the shrimp will become rubbery.
Assembling the tacos:
Place two tortillas on each plate. Spoon about ¼ cup slaw on each tortilla, and top each with 3 shrimp, a generous dollop of tomatillo sauce, and 1 tablespoon cojita cheese (you could substitute feta cheese). Serve.
Roasted Tomatillo Shrimp Tacos with Honey-Lime Slaw
Sauce adapted from Rick Bayless' Mexican Kitchen
The tomatillo sauce:
8 to 9 medium tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed
3 garlic cloves, unpeeled
4 teaspoon olive oil, divided
½ large white onion, cut into ¼-inch dice
1 ½ cups chicken broth
The slaw:
2 cups thinly sliced red cabbage
¼ cup chopped cilantro
2 teaspoon fresh lime juice
2 teaspoon honey
Pinch of kosher salt
8 corn tortillas
The shrimp:
24 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
¼ cup canola oil
¾ teaspoon ground coriander
¾ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon chile powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup crumbled cotija cheese (can substitute feta cheese)
The tomatillo sauce:
Preheat the broiler. Line a large baking sheet with foil and place the tomatillos on it, along with jalapeno pepper and garlic cloves. Place the baking sheet under the broiler and cook until the tomatillos begin to blacken and start releasing some of their juices. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let cool until the tomatillos are cool enough to handle. Place the tomatillos into the bowl of a food processor or blender. Squeeze the roasted garlic into the processor.
Heat 2 teaspoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is browned, about 10 minutes. Add to the tomatillo mixture. Pulse a couple of times to combine. Cut the jalapeno pepper into pieces and add a little bit at a time, pulsing and tasting after each addition, until the heat is at the desired level. Remember that the heat will begin to intensify when the mixture is simmered. The sauce should be a puree, but with some chunks of tomatillos.
Wipe out the skillet, turn the heat to medium-high, and add 2 teaspoons olive oil. Drip a small amount of the tomatillo mixture into the pan. If it sizzles loudly, the pan is ready. Add the rest of the mixture and, stirring constantly, cook until the mixture thicken and darkens. Stir in chicken broth, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and let the mixture simmer vigorously until it coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
The slaw:
Place the cabbage in a medium bowl and add cilantro. In a small bowl, whisk together lime juice, honey, and a pinch of salt. Toss the cabbage mixture withe the dressing.
The tortillas:
Wrap corn tortillas in a heavy kitchen towel and place in a steamer set over boiling water. Cover with a lid and let boil for 1 minute. Remove the pot from the heat and, leaving the lid on, let the tortillas rest for 15 minutes.
The shrimp:
In a medium bowl, combine canola oil, ground coriander, chili powder, ground cumin, and kosher salt. Toss the shrimp in the marinade. Heat a large grill pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Do not overcook or the shrimp will become rubbery.
Assembling the tacos:
Place two tortillas on each plate. Spoon about ¼ cup slaw on each tortilla, and top each with 3 shrimp, a generous dollop of tomatillo sauce, and 1 to 2 tablespoons cojita cheese (you could substitute feta cheese). Serve.
Makes 4 servings (2 tacos each).
